Build story · Japan · 1984–2023
Uniqlo: basics, fabric technology, and the fleece boom
Uniqlo focused on high-quality basics rather than fashion, controlled design through sales, and partnered with a fabric maker to create HeatTech — growing into Asia's largest clothing retailer.
By Shivam Bhandari · Reviewed 31 October 2026 · How we write
by the numbers
- First store
- 1984, Hiroshima
- Fleeces sold (2000)
- about 26 million
- HeatTech launch
- 2003, with Toray
- Fast Retailing revenue (FY2023)
- about ¥2.8 trillion
What happened
Tadashi Yanai took over his father's tailoring business and opened the first Uniqlo store in Hiroshima in 1984. He adopted the ‘SPA’ model — controlling everything from design and production to stores — to sell quality casual clothing at low prices.
In 1998 Uniqlo opened in Tokyo's fashionable Harajuku district and sold colourful fleece jackets at very low prices. The fleece became a national craze, with about 26 million sold in 2000. In 2003 it launched HeatTech, a thin heat-retaining fabric developed with Toray Industries. Instead of chasing trends, Uniqlo sells ‘LifeWear’: well-made basics in many colours.
Fast Retailing, Uniqlo's parent, reported revenue of about ¥2.8 trillion in fiscal 2023, making it one of the world's largest clothing companies.
Timeline
- 1984
First Uniqlo store.
- 1998
Harajuku store and fleece boom.
- 2003
HeatTech launched.
- 2005
Fast Retailing holding company formed.
what made it work
- Focus on timeless basics with high quality.
- Control of the full value chain.
- Fabric innovation as differentiation.
the lesson
You don't need to chase trends — owning a category of quality basics, improved through technology, can build a global brand.
Apply it to your business
- 1Pick a category you can own consistently.
- 2Partner with suppliers to create unique products.
- 3Quality at a low price builds loyalty.
Laws at work in this story
Figures are rounded and drawn from public reports, company filings and widely cited coverage at the time. Check the company's latest filings before relying on any number.